INDIALINE

Jewelry & Costume

Silver Jewelry- Rajasthan

Costumes

Men

The clothes, jewellery, type of turbans and foot wear, establish one`s identity and social status. Traditionally men wear a turban or pagari on their heads, an upper garment called angarakha and a dhoti or pyjama for the lower part of the body. A turban reflects a person`s caste and region in the way it is tied, coloured or styled. Angarakhi, a derivation from Sanskrit angrakshak or body protector, is prevalent throughout Rajasthan. People wear angarakhis made of locally manufactured clothes. Tie and dye or printed angarahki are reserved for special occasions while ordinary cotton material is used for daily wear. Ankarakhas come in a variety of styles.

A waist band called kamarband or patka was a part of the medieval upper class costume. The peasant class did not wear patka but they did have a piece of cotton fabric.

Women

Rajasthani women wear colourful skirts called ghaghara, blouses or tops called Kurti - kanchali and an odhani to cover their heads.

Traditionally the ghagharas were not wide skirts but by the 19th C. it grew wider and wider until the number of pleats meant the measure of one`s prosperity.

In Rajasthan, leather shoes have been worn since very old times, Sand heats up fast during summer, therefore both men and women use mojaris (leather shoes). It is made with camel or goat or sheep skin. Camel leather is very soft and a pair of shoes made of it can be used only inside the house while goat and sheep skin shoes are quite strong. They are often embroidered. Sometimes, intricate embroidery is done on velvet or brocade and then the piece is pasted on the outer part of the shoes.

Jewellery

Rajasthanis are very fond of jewellery. Wealthy class wears gold ornaments studded with diamonds, emeralds and rubies while the others wear chunky silver ornaments. Jaipur is famed for producing exquisite gold ornaments as well as beautiful costume jewelry. An entire market, Johari Bazar, at Jaipur is dedicated to making jewelry.

Women of Gayari, Mina and Bhil tribal communities wear brass ornaments made by a community called Bharawa.

Rabaris of Sirohi region and Raikas of Jodhpur wear heavy silver jewellery, often studded with inexpensive glass pieces. These have charming patterns based on sun, moon and flowers, seeds and leaves found in the region.

Besides metal jewelry, Rajasthan is also proficient in the art of making lac jewellery. The jewellery is often decorated with small glass pieces. In South Rajasthan, women wear bangles made of coconut shell, these also have silver strip set in a groove in the centre.